Post by vodkamartini1 on Mar 15, 2005 18:10:16 GMT -5
Nice one I am glad you found the original source, 'cause I cut a lot of bits others may find important out of it, plus it is nice to have its original author credited for their hard work.
Iain Dalby West King Dalby Racing Porsche Silverstone, England www.teamkdr.tk
I've never used any Internet guide as a base for my setups as they always confuses me. Instead I read the definition of what I'm in doubt about in GPaedia. It's quite useful sometimes.
Henrique Rocha BMW ArrowsF1 Team Interlagos, São Paulo, Brazil
Post by Saturdaynight on Mar 20, 2005 18:24:24 GMT -5
Hey guys! I'm developing a setup chart based from this article, complete with a default neutral car setup, with a worksheet to figure out which things to change in the setup, according to how the car is performing. I'll try to have it done soon!
Missed this post somehow Nice idea Saturday...Accidently, I am preparing a new section at my site to discuss a few setup ideas too...I'll let you guys know when it's up
Slow Fast Front Bump 10 00 Front Rebound 15 02 Rear Bump 07 00 Rear Rebound 12 02
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First time out!
Car response when entering a corner (tend to spin, go where you want, or push wide?) Car response during a corner? Car response exiting a corner? Car response under braking, want to spin or doesn't want to turn? Is the plank constantly dragging on the ground? Is there excessive wheelspin exiting a corner? Is sixth gear reached, and does it redline (final rev light on) for long periods?
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Adjustments:
Springs:
Softer springs Harder springs Higher level of grip Quicker, more responsive handling Less tyre wear Possible to run lower car (more grip) Higher ride height required Lower grip from the tyres Less responsive handling Greater tyre wear
Less understeer (more oversteer) soften front or stiffen rear Less oversteer (more understeer) soften rear or stiffen front more grip (less responsiveness) soften front and rear more responsiveness (less grip) stiffen front and/or rear
Ride height & Packers:
Lower ride height = more grip, more plank wear
higher ride height = less grip, less plank wear
Lowering front ride height = more front grip and oversteer or cure understeer.
Lowering rear ride hight = less front grip and more understeer or cure oversteer.
Packers:
increase by 1mm each time, and continue to raise until the plank DOESN'T flash yellow when going through
the fastest corner on the track. Having set the ride height, now you can add packers.
if the rear is softly sprung (900 or less), set the packers to about 3mm less than the ride height. If
the rear springs are quite stiff (more than 900), try setting the packers to 2 or even 1 less than the
ride height.
Dampers:
FAST DAMPING front of car is "overdamped" in the fast bump direction, then you will experience UNDERSTEER on the
bumpy sections of turns. If the rear is overdamped you will experience OVERSTEER.
For fast speed adjustments, pick a bumpy turn. Start with bump at 0 and rebound at 2 and work your way up until the front UNDERSTEERS over the bumps,
then back off 1 or 2 clicks.
do the same for the rear until it OVERSTEERS over bumps, again back off 1 or 2 clicks.
Always keep the fast rebound higher than the bump - 1.5 to 3 times so.
The stiffer the spring the stiffer the rebound setting.
It is the fast rebound's job to resist spring pressure and unsprung weight (wheel, tire, hubs, brakes
etc) when the suspension droops.
SLOW DAMPING turn-in throttle-out, and mid-corner transitions (chicanes). It controls the dynamic weight transfer and
overall motion of the main chassis relative to the track surface as the car is turned, slowed, and
accelerated.
these motions cause "slow" and small movements of the damper shaft. The slow rebound usually ends up
being higher than the bump, but can be at times 1:1.
ENTRY type 1 : Increasing braking + increasing steering This phase is the first part of a fast decreasing radius turn. This phase will not occur at all if you
get all your braking done *before* you turn-in. Since weight is being transferred both forward and
outboard, the outside front damper moves in bump and the inside rear damper moves in rebound. these are
the dominant two dampers in this phase of turn-in. The other two have minimal effects during this phase.
ENTRY type 2 : Decreasing braking + increasing steering This is the turn-in phase of a slow corner. This phase may or may not occur depending on the type of
turn or driving technique. Weight is being transferred outboard and to the rear, so the outboard rear
damper moves in bump and the inside front damper moves in rebound. The other two dampers are considered
stationary.
ENTRY type 3 : Increasing steering at constant throttle This phase can be a chicane turn-in (GP2 has a lot of these!) or a turn entry taken at *full* throttle.
Weight is being transferred outboard only, so *both* outside dampers are moving in bump and *both*
inside dampers are moving in rebound.
MID-CORNER TRANSITION : Decreasing steering back to zero at constant throttle This is really the opposite of a type 3 entry. It's what happens in the middle of a chicane, as you
flick the steering back away from the current cornering direction. As soon as the lateral acceleration
passes back through zero, the turn reverts to a type 3 entry again.
EXIT : Decreasing steering + increasing throttle (or decreasing braking) This is the apex_to_exit phase. Weight is being transferred inboard and to the rear. The outside front
damper moves in rebound and the inside rear moves in bump. The others are considered stationary.
Here's a chart to help understand low speed damper adjustments:
first time ive read that! i disagree with the gear ratio's though. i believe the ratios should get longer as you go through the gears, not the reverse.
actually, i read the part of the article concerning gears, and he appears to favour whats posted above, in that the lower gear ratios are set longer...i'll have to try that, but i do remember riding onboard with barrichello at melbourne once, and he banged it through the first 4 gears in about 2 seconds just one after the other. ive usually always followed that philosophy since...
Post by zeppelin101 on Oct 25, 2005 6:16:48 GMT -5
Low Downforce is 10/8??? I run at about 4/6 or lower for low downforce, but then again, I do put as much mechanical grip as possible into the car. Plus I always run 0/0 on the fast bump as well which gives nice grip
Post by zeppelin101 on Oct 25, 2005 6:29:34 GMT -5
My monza is at 3/4 i think, and I got a 1:18:456 on my last lap, which was kinda flukey. But I don't like hockenheim, that's why me oval sits on top of it ;D
Yeah, as far as teams go, currently most of them are filled but they are very few...in december we'll have a better view of how teams will stand. Right now, Audi, Arrows and Holden are the only teams with filled positions for next season
Well that was an interesting doc which was linked above. Can learn some interesting things reading over old posts. Anyway i was just wondering if i was able to find setups for for cars which have been posted on the net, can i use them for the WSRC? Since im very new to all this i dont really know how to set up a car.
Kyle Schroeder - Rhino Racing Owner Adelaide, Australia